Human Psychology Is Canine Psychology (chapter from the upcoming book)
“…time and time again I would see that certain dogs would behave differently than I anticipated, than even their owners had anticipated, and I had to find out why.”
When I was 17, attending a career seminar to pick a college major, I was asked a very simple but necessary question: What are you interested in?
What am I interested in? Something that grips me enough to make a career out of it? Dog training was nowhere near my mind at the time. Dog walking even less so. I thought of becoming a teacher like my uncle, teaching future generations in different subjects. I wanted to be an astronaut when I was little, what ever happened to that? Firefighter? Are there 5’5” firefighters?
I wrote down a few things I was interested in, but my main inquiry came down to “how do you interpret dreams?”. Being scientifically oriented, I wasn’t satisfied with the loose associations made online by people claiming to be “psychic healers”. I wanted more. I wanted a method to reliably use so I could interpret the ever more confusing dreams I experienced in my even more confusing childhood.
Eventually, I stumbled upon this guy, maybe you’ve heard of him. Sigmund Freud? Cool dude. As it turns out, he wrote an entire book on the subject. 489 pages. I wish I could tell you I devoured it the way I used to consume books when I was little (once tearring through the entire 5th book of the Harry Potter series in a single day), but I didn’t. It was strangely the exact opposite. The book was so mentally stimulating I couldn’t handle more than a few pages at a time! I’d put the book down for several days after that and think about what was said, exploring my own understanding on the matter and coming to my own conclusions, which inevitably, would be stated on the next page when I’d begin reading again. It was possibly one of the most thrilling things I’ve ever been through. You know, the way a book full of dense psychological literature always is. No? Just me? Okay.
I never was able to interpret that dream of mine successfully, try as I might. Maybe I’m too close to the patient. Still, it started me down a road that I’ve never quit exploring since. One that, coincidentally, has an awful lot to do with training dogs.
By giving you a conceptual grasp of these theories and how they apply to dog training, I hope that you’ll not only have an appreciation for how similar we are to our dogs (since all of the following also apply to our behavior) but also an understanding of what the hell I’m even talking about. I cover a lot of topics that otherwise are not discussed in this book, so pay close attention!
The Theories:
Clark Hull developed the “Goal Gradient hypothesis” which spoke on the proximal distance influencing the drive towards a goal. In other words, the smaller the distance, the bigger the drive. By breaking goals down into small enough steps, we make the proximal distance very small and achievable, which allows for a dopamine hit that then motivates the next goal to be attained (since dopamine is addictive by nature). This is why to-do lists can be so successful, and why reverse engineering a goal is crucial to good dog training. Whenever your dog is struggling to learn a particular behavior, ask yourself “Have I broken it down into small enough steps?”. Most of the time, the answer is no, and progress can continue to be made simply by dividing the goal into more steps.
Lure training is completely based around this theory, as we are literally holding the treat within perceived reach, but somehow just out of bounds (due to our fingers covering the treat). This keeps the dog incredibly engaged and allows us to teach loads of behaviors beyond a simple “Sit” and “Down”. It often stars in Agility training to teach the dog how to perform these complex, multi-layered functions within the concerning course. If it’s good enough for a competitive dog sport, it’s good enough for you to implement into your training!
Martin Seligman came up with the concept of “Learned Helplessness” which is used to train elephants. They tie the elephant to a large pole when it is young and incapable of breaking the rope or wood, and as the elephant ages, it associates not being able to escape with being tied to that stake of wood. Even though it has tripled in size and is certainly capable of removing the stake, it doesn’t even try. This is used in separation anxiety exercises like tethering, which take the same idea but add a reward factor to prevent the experience from being wholly negative. So we might initially stand just half a step away from our dog’s leash radius, and give them a treat once they stop whining and yelping over the fact they cannot be right by our side. We continue this pattern until we eventually, maybe even miraculously, end up on the other side of the room! Your dogs learning to give you a bit of personal space can be so useful for your sanity. I highly recommend it. Just please, never leave your dogs completely out of sight and unattended while tethered or tether them to anything unstable. Besides that, have a blast.
The implementation of this theory is also how we prevent something like demand barking, whether from a dog in a crate or a dog outside of one. We ignore the calls of our dog until they inevitably learn all that noise does nothing to promote any course of action from us. Then, we can reward their calmness. If your dog is having lots of trouble, then of course think about how to break things down further, but for the most part this should remove any incessant, attention seeking barks. Thanks Martin.
Lev Vygotsky produced a theory called “The Zone of Proximal Development”. This theory states that one must be sufficiently stressed/challenged to prevent a lack of interest, but cannot be overwhelmed, which would prevent them from attempting it further. This ties in with Hull’s “Goal Gradient hypothesis” since both are used in conjunction to shape a dog’s behavior. However, Vygotsky’s theory is important to keep in mind when dealing with phobias in particular, as too much stress from the anxiety/fear can result in the dog shutting down or losing progress, while not enough does not give us the opportunity to work on the behavior. This theory works alongside Joseph Wolpe's “Systematic Desensitization” theory and is expanded upon in the “You’re not a dog trainer, you’re a scientist” article on my website’s dog blog.
I take it a step further, I believe that the Zone of Proximal Development is not just dependent on stress or challenge, but rather motivation. If someone or something of interest is in sight, in high enough amounts, it will override the hesitation or doubt the dog experiences. This can lead to a temporary imbalance between the challenge being met and the dog’s current perceived capacity. Even though that sounds like a bad thing, I encourage you to think of every movie you’ve ever seen. In that disharmony, that’s where all the brave, notable actions occur.
The entire dog training community obviously owes B. F. Skinner big time, as he is responsible for laying out the groundwork for clicker training and marker words. He found that the timing of two events is crucial in terms of how fast the link occurs in the subject’s mind. So two events can be tied together in a dog’s mind if one immediately precipitates the other, which is why saying “Yes!”, then giving a treat (or using a clicker, then giving the treat), is so effective in shaping behavior. Some dog trainers even do competitions to see how fast they can click in response to seeing the desired behavior. Some even go and train chickens like my previous boss Andrea Arden did. It’s critical to have good timing folks!
However, this can also work against us. Dog’s can come to understand that the sound of large amounts of running water indicates bath time, or that a certain drawer is only opened when the nail clippers come out. In certain cases, it can be more extreme, like in an example a dog trainer friend of mine gave me where her dog would anticipate another dog (her dog was reactive and would bark) whenever she would take out chicken. So now, anytime some chicken came out during a walk, her dog was already on the lookout. Understanding how your dog interprets a sequence of events can be crucial to reshaping their behavior.
That’s not where Skinner’s credit ends however. He was also responsible for what is known as the four quadrants of operant conditioning, which is pretty much the basis of all dog training. This includes positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, positive punishment, and negative punishment. By comprehending this, you begin to see how punishment is in fact involved in positive reinforcement training, and is even necessary for progress. However, the kind of punishment is what differs.
Imagine training a dog how to “Leave It”. We start off with a treat far away from them, that progressively inches closer to the floor, until the treat is successfully on it (given of course that the dog did not move). Let's say “Fulanito” does a great job- until you remove your hand. He wasn’t given the Break word, yet he’s bolting for the treat. What do we do? We pick the treat up and start all over again. We can’t let him have the treat when he fails, that does not teach him anything. This is a form of negative punishment. It’s just not in the sense that you’re used to thinking about. It’s negative because we’re subtracting the treat and it’s punishment because we are making them start over until they get it right, adapting on our part as necessary.
Now, does that mean we’re scarring the dog? No, of course not. Does it mean we hate our dogs? Again, no. It simply means we are waiting for them to succeed in order to properly reward their efforts. That is proper positive reinforcement. We won’t hit them for failing to leave the food item alone, that would be positive punishment (oxymoronic, I know) and that is the type of punishment to avoid implementing. The goal is of course, for the dog to experience as few stumbling blocks or opportunities for negative punishment as possible, but it’s not easy teaching a 2 month old puppy to roll over (e.g.) on the first try. Failure is part of success. Change your relationship to it and your training will reap the rewards, along with other aspects of your being, as it has for me.
Before I forget, I did want to mention negative reinforcement, which is something that applies to environmental rewards in the “Walking Basics” chapter. We allow our dogs a break, an easing of the strict training protocol, for them to engage their senses and receive that innate reward of being able to do so. That is a form of negative reinforcement, since we are taking away the restriction (the tight hold on the leash) that prevents them from experiencing something that will reinforce their behavior (sniffing their environment) for the better. Now you know all the four quadrants and have an understanding of how they apply.
John B. Watson is significant due to his display of conditioning and deconditioning. An admirer of Pavlovian thought, he found that emotions, not just physiological states, could be triggered through association. However, the opposite is true, and is very helpful when training a dog. In the case of a dog jumping all over someone, other people may have constantly gotten low to the ground and been ecstatic towards the dog when they were little, therefore, the dog now reacts with excitement anytime someone appears to be coming down to their level and may start jumping or forcefully pushing themselves onto the person out of excitement. Some dogs even retain a loss of bladder control, meaning they pee from the excessive joy, as though they were puppies. This is because both Watson and Pavlov’s theories are at work. The person provokes the excited emotional state in the dog, which then triggers the bladder losing control.
Many clients have observed with shock that I do not immediately go to pet their dog when first meeting them, but rather wait for a calm moment, and then reward them with affection. This is to start the process of deconditioning the jumping behavior, which reprograms the association they had, and after a few visits, clients are surprised their dog is calm off the bat (while remaining crazy with them upon greeting). So I’ve successfully deconditioned the response by removing the emotional trigger that would precipitate the act of jumping. Oh, and in case you’re worried- no, it’s not because the dog loves me any less. Feel free to implement this strategy. The dogs (and clients) surprisingly love me more for it.
Pavlov could help the bulk of you with many issues you experience with your pup. Had Pavlov been a dog trainer, I believe he would’ve been among the best, maybe even coming close to my skills. He laid the groundwork for Skinner’s theories in that he discovered that a reflex response can be developed from an association, like the famous example you surely all know of by now of a dog salivating at the sound of a bell.
Your dog likely doesn’t do this however, instead, maybe they are reactive, and start barking at the sound of the door opening. This is because they’re associating the doorbell or knocking with a new person entering the home. Some of you think you can outsmart your dog by simply not having people knock, but it doesn’t work that way sadly. Your dog will learn that the predecessor to the strange new person is the sound of the door knob turning. Some dogs in certain spaces become so gung-ho about this that they will bark just from you walking towards the door.
The way to train a dog out of this is by practicing a slight movement of the doorknob, a single knock, a doorbell sound mimicked on your phone, or someone simply walking close to your door, then rewarding your dog when they are quiet and calm as the stimuli occurs. I’ve trained dogs who would react at the sound of the elevator dings. You very well may have to break this down into even smaller steps than you initially imagine. Don’t give up, invite a friend or neighbor to help you recondition your dog's behavior in exchange for some pizza or coffee. Your neighbors might even be enthusiastic to help at the prospect of your dog no longer barking every time someone simply walks by the hallway. You know, that purpose they were designed for.
Joseph Wolpe is renowned for his work on Systematic Desensitization that I mentioned earlier, and its application is especially important for puppies (especially very shy ones) and rescues. In this theory of systematic desensitization, he proposed that there’s a hierarchy of anxieties, which must be first listed and then faced. He believed in doing this in increments, having a background in treating PTSD in soldiers, he knew the consequences of anxieties being introduced too quickly or extending too far. The reason this hierarchy of anxieties is so useful is because it can be the reason your dog is brave enough to be curious, explorative, engaged and happy.
If the hierarchy of anxieties is utilized properly, you’re slowly building up courage within the dog, to the point that they are able to tackle the next anxiety inducing stimulus. For example, take a puppy that is afraid of all these infamous grates along NYC sidewalks. Simply forcing the dog to walk on them by dragging them along on leash could result in them avoiding them all together, so don’t start there.
Instead, start by introducing different surfaces to your dog for their paws to explore. Remember, they have paws that are always connected with the surface they’re walking on while we have shoes with tons of padding. Walking is a sensory experience for them that involves feeling, and we must be empathetic and honor that. So we start with a strange surface for them to walk on, maybe bubble wrap taped to a cardboard box (don’t let them eat it, guide them with a treat along it). Next, how about a laid out blanket with items underneath it? What about the nearby park and all the pebbles along that path? Eventually, once your dog is comfortable with all these strange surfaces, you will then approach a grate; by which point they have developed the necessary courage to explore and at least step on it. Reward the effort and keep trying at their pace. They got this.
The entirety of attachment theory was so necessary for me to advance my understanding of dogs and their personalities. Before putting 2 and 2 together, I misjudged all dogs to be the exact same, that there could be no real variation because we’re dealing with animals with a limited capacity for consciousness and the capability to express it. However, time and time again I would see that certain dogs would behave differently than I anticipated, than even their owners had anticipated, and I had to find out why. That’s when it clicked- attachment theory.
A great way to test your dog’s attachment style is by taking them to the dog park. There it will be represented without a doubt, given that you are standing being engaging. John Bowlby came up with three different styles he noticed while working with young children. In a way I’ll horrendously simplify, he noticed: there were infants who were securely attached (ones that might be initially distressed upon parental absence but would calm down quickly after they came back), anxious resistant (babies who were very distressed and would seemingly seek comfort while punishing the parents for their previous absence) and avoidant attached (ones who didn’t care much about their parents leaving and would purposefully avoid them or just not react if they did return).
Now how does that relate to dogs? Well, some dogs are securely attached. Those are the ones who will be excited to see you, get reasonably sad when you leave (even if only expressed in laying their head down), and feel free to explore their surroundings. They have a bond with you that lets them know they are loved, and it enables them to play like maniacs at the dog park but still check in to make sure you’re still around for them. These dogs generally don’t have too many issues to worry about. Avoidant attached dogs however, are usually dogs who will not check in, they do not like meeting new people, they prefer their own space, they do not get along well with many other dogs, they are focused on approaching an issue their own way and do not pay much mind to your instruction. These types of dogs are usually adopted or rescued and may even be suitable for some people. Introverts the world round I’m sure will rejoice to have a dog like this. The extra extrovert I am, it’d be a personal hell.
Training a dog who is avoidant attached is not as complicated as you would think however, and although I make it sound like I don’t enjoy them, I actually really love the challenge and like getting to know them on a deeper level. Avoidant attached dogs typically require us to approach situations differently than we normally would. Like for example, if a new person comes into the home- they shouldn’t immediately try to go up to the dog and pet them. That will just make the dog uncomfortable and walk away. Instead, it’s better to almost disregard the dog until the energy in the room has become calm and soothing, which gives the dog an opportunity to feel at ease and explore this newcomer. When this exploration happens, it is important not to try and reciprocate the energy. Simply have your guests continue to focus on the conversation you two are engaged in and allow your dog that freedom. After a little while, let your guests toss a few treats to your dog and end the interaction there. With more and more visits, they can gradually warm up to them and soon become buddy-buddy.
Anxious resistant dogs are difficult. Those are the destructive types and you can read all about one in particular I helped to train in the “Are dogs worth the effort?” subchapter. Typically, they’re dogs with tons of energy that are wired to be neurotic if they are not able to get enough of it out. They find “creative solutions” to this problem by tearing apart things, such as their crate, rugs, furniture, bedding, you name it. Anxious resistant dogs must get high quality, intense, engaged stimulation, and I find it is best to have it be a combination of play and training. These types of dogs really only have behavioral issues under the circumstance of their anxiety being peaked as well as their energy, so if you’re able to have them release it, they’ll be wonderful, tranquil dogs. A tired dog is a happy dog- never forget that. Especially if you have a pomsky like the one I mention in that aforementioned subchapter.
Albert Bandura is the last psychologist I’ll mention here, as he’s important to understanding the why behind your dog echoing your emotional states. He proposed this theory of social learning, which signifies that we learn how to behave by observing others and the behavior they model. There’s actually a whole branch of dog training called “mirroring/modeling training”, where this is taken to a new level. In one video that sticks with me forever and always, the trainer and the client both knock a water bottle down with their hands and keep standing it upright again, only to continue the same action. The dog, after seeing this behavior performed multiple times, swipes at the bottle with his paw. It’s hilarious and cute and amazing and part of everything wonderful about this world but more importantly, it is a powerful statement being made of the influence we have over our dogs.
For this reason, lots of trainers will instruct you to gauge your own energy, paying attention to when you’re nervous and the manner in which that manifests. Your dog pays attention to those signs which are flags for your emotional state, and could be potentially interpreted by them as cues to feel the same. “If my pet parent is really anxious around anytime we pass by another dog, then there must be some reason for it. Therefore, I deduce (the dog says all this, naturally) that there is due cause for me to behave in a similar fashion”. Over time, you seemingly “suddenly” have a dog that is anxious around other dogs, and you have no idea why. Well, this is it.
The way to reverse it is by of course, modeling the exact opposite behavior, and ensuring that they are receiving the opposite of anxious signals- they’re receiving calm, cool, confident signals from their owner now, and it means they can feel comfortable feeling the same. Over many repetitions, the dog then starts to decondition the behavior, but it starts with you reconditioning your own.
While I believe this can be incredibly helpful and I have seen fellow dog trainers implement this strategy successfully, I personally haven't found much value from it. However, that may just mean I’ve had the privilege of working with dogs who had not deduced that reasoning or owners that were not extremely anxious to the point of passing along that emotional turmoil to their dog. This also doesn’t apply to all dogs obviously, as service dogs can work with those with extreme depression and anxiety while they themselves remain happy and calm.
I’ve seriously nerded out here. I recognize it, forgive me, but it’s just me being true to who I am. This book is as much for me as it is for you, so let me have this. You’re getting incredible value out of this anyways, I don’t address half these issues elsewhere in the book, so you’re welcome.
But anyways, I’m done now. I could surely speak on other notable psychologists who’ve influenced my thinking but it would get very theoretical and weirdly halfways spiritual so quickly. This chapter was only a fraction of my power, which is now dwindling since it’s currently 2 a.m. Mind you, I could be out clubbing. I’m in my 20’s- instead here I am, writing this. Passion is a hell of a drug. Better than anything I’d find at those clubs most likely.
I hope after reading this you come to realize how many behaviorists and other psychologists had to come together in order to advance dog training to the stage it’s at now. I am personally incredibly grateful for all of their efforts, for the fact that they, just like I did, regarded their curiosity as a guiding force and followed it to their passion. For them, their passion was analyzing and understanding behavior, for me, I guess it must be similar. Here I am training dogs, after all. A dream I never had which has come true, all from a dream I had when I was 12. Funny how life works.